Sanmen Yicheng Clams: The Ultimate Springtime Culinary Attitude

How do you pronounce these two characters?

As a native of Taizhou, you're surely no stranger to them—

surely you can rattle off the answer instantly:

"yì chēng".

But have you truly grasped their essence?

Are there any particular customs when eating them?

Are you certain you truly understand?

Sanmen Yicheng Clams

Yicheng clams, scientifically known as Veneridae, thrive in low-salinity estuarine waters and soft mudflats of inner bays. They are a common delicacy on Taizhou dining tables. The reputation of Sanmen clams stems from the unique geography of Sanmen Bay. Sanmen Bay is an enclosed bay, sheltered by surrounding mountains. It experiences minimal wind and waves, boasts thick silt deposits with low sand content, suffers little seawater pollution, and is rich in natural feed. It can be said that Sanmen Bay's uniquely favourable tidal flat environment is what cultivates the distinctive flavour of Sanmen clams.

Sanmen clams boast thin shells, tender flesh, and a plump, succulent flavour. They have garnered multiple honours at Zhejiang Provincial Agricultural Expositions. In July 2009, Sanmen clams received certification from the China Green Food Development Centre as a Grade A Green Food product. In 2010, the "Sanmen Clam" designation was approved by the Trademark Office of the State Administration for Industry and Commerce as a geographical indication certification trademark.

The Sanmen County Annals records: "Clams, belonging to the mussel family, are cultivated in fields termed ”clam fields”. Their shape is narrow and elongated, resembling a middle finger. In Sanmen, clams are locally termed ”qing” in dialect. Renowned for their plump flesh and fresh flavour, they are a common dish on the tables of ordinary folk during festivals and celebrations."

It is said that Guo Zhongyue of the Qing dynasty, after tasting these clams, composed the poem "Xishi's Tongue": "Xishi's tongue still lingers with fragrance, Seafarers savour it time and again. Not found in the waters of Yue River, Shame to compare its colour to Wu Wu." This attests to the clam's exquisite flavour.

Traditional Chinese medicine further holds that clam meat, with its sweet and salty flavour and cooling nature, possesses properties to clear heat and detoxify, replenish yin and dispel irritability, benefit the kidneys and promote diuresis, clear the stomach and treat dysentery, and restore vitality postpartum. Rich in iodine and selenium, clams serve as an excellent health food for individuals with hyperthyroidism, expectant mothers, and the elderly. The zinc and manganese in clams nourish the brain, enhancing cognitive function. Medical professionals have also discovered that clams offer therapeutic benefits for symptoms like dry mouth and feverishness arising from radiotherapy or chemotherapy.

How to cook clams deliciously?

In Taizhou, seafood consumption follows strict seasonal principles, with distinct reasons for eating particular varieties at specific times of year. From the Winter Solstice until around the Qingming Festival, clam meat is plump, tender and at its most flavourful. Preparing clams is straightforward: after cleaning, place them in lightly salted water until they expel any sand. Gently slit the back seam with a thin knife, plunge into boiling water briefly, add chopped spring onions, then serve. Naturally, methods like salt-baked on a hotplate, steamed with rice wine, or stir-fried with garlic and spring onions offer distinct flavours.

How to select clams?

First, examine the cleanliness of the shell.

Clams with pristine shells are preferable, as they contain less sand.

Second, favour golden-hued shells.

Opt for clams with a golden-yellow shell, as these are fresher and more flavourful.

Third, purchase live specimens.

When buying, gently touch the clams to check if they retract freely and show signs of movement – this indicates freshness. Avoid consuming dead clams.

Fourthly, examine the plumpness of the clams.

Assess the flesh by touch; select those with full, firm bodies for superior flavour.

Fifthly, lift the clams to their scent.

A distinct briny aroma indicates freshness, whereas a lack thereof suggests they have been stored for some time and should be avoided.

Ancient verse once praised them thus:

Four-inch sand dragonflies with yellow tails sway,

Their flavour surpasses Shaoyang's seas by far;

When wheat blossoms bloom in mid-March,

Beauty's seedling clams grace the market's stall.

This season's clams boast

Tender, succulent flesh with a distinctive flavour—

A perfect accompaniment to wine.

Come March, I shall journey to Taizhou

To feast upon these clams!

Translator：周杰  Ivan